MEN'S FASHION
1920's
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The beginning of the decade witnessed the end of World
War I. Men returning from the war
faced closets full of clothes from the teens, which they
wore into the early 1920s.
During this time, the sacque suit, which had been popular
since the mid 1800's, constituted
appropriate "day" dress for gentlemen. (Edwardian etiquette
commanded successive changes
of clothing for gentlemen during the day.) With the suits,
colored shirts of putty, peach,
blue-gray and cedar were worn. Shaped silk ties in small
geometric patterns or diagonal
stripes were secured with tie pins. Black bowler hats
completed the ensemble.
The tail coat was considered appropriate formal evening
wear, accompanied by a top hat.
Starched white shirts with pleated yokes were expected
with the tail coat, although bow ties
and shirts with white wing collars were also seen. Shirts
are white, with silver gray, black,
or white ties. High hats, if worn, are place at a rakish
angle. Spats are linen or canvas in white,
biscuit, or gray. Accessories consist of chesterfield
coats with mufflers knotted at the neck,
and crooked-handle or straight-shaft malacca canes. Tuxedos
were increasing in popularity
but were not yet completely acceptable.
Hair was often cropped short at the ears with waves.
Black patent-leather shoes were popular during this era
and often appeared with formal evening wear.
Casual Summer clothing demanded two-tone shoes (called
spectators) in white and tan, or white and black.
Fringed tongues on Oxfords and brogues were seen frequently.
Lace-up style shoes were most in demand.
In 1925 the era of the baggy pants dawned. This fashion
would influence mens wear for three decades.
Oxford bags were first worn by Oxford undergraduates,
eager to circumvent the University's
prohibition on knickers. The style originated when knickers
were banned in the classroom.
As the bags measured anywhere from twenty-two inches
to forty inches around the bottoms,
they could easily be slipped on over the forbidden knickers.
John Wanamaker introduced Oxford
bags to the American public in the spring of 1925.
Jazz clothing passed quickly in and out of fashion during
the twenties. These tightly-fitting suits
were considered an expression of passion for jazz music.
Jackets were long and tight-waisted
with long back vents. The buttons were placed close together
whether the jackets were double
or single breasted. Trousers were tight and stove-pipe
skinny.
http://www.withaswing.com/doc/drs/mensfash/mf-1920s.htm January 9, 2004